Thursday, April 24, 2025

Contrasting Florals

This dress was meant to be made a couple of years ago in the Fall season, but time got away from me and the project was put on a back burner.  I never put the fabric away because I knew that I wanted to do something with it sooner rather than later, and here we are.

One reason I chose this particular vintage pattern is because it doesn't require that much yardage, and I was working with a very limited amount of wool.  The drape and the weight of the fabric also lent itself to a 1940s style dress, so that was stuck in my mind.

I previously used the pattern to make this dress, and I do get quite a bit of wear out of the dress in the Fall months, so I thought that it was worth making another version in a very different color palette.

The pattern itself is more fragile than most of my vintage patterns, and I suspect that someone at some point left it out in the sun for a little too long as some areas are very crispy along the folded edges.  That being said, the pattern is absolutely still usable.

It is actually incredible how sturdy pattern tissue is considering its age.  This particular pattern is approximately eighty years old, and both the tissue and the newsprint instructions are still going strong except for a couple of areas.

In most of the patterns I have come across, the instructions generally see more aging than the pattern tissue itself.

This fabric was lovely to work with aside from the fact that it did like to fray quite a bit.

It's a very lightweight wool and not itchy on my skin, so it will work for a variety of seasons and temperatures.

I even found a suitable vintage zipper in my stash, which seemed fitting, so I went ahead and used that one.  It's often the zipper that gives away whether or not a garment is truly vintage, and I like to think that some of my creations could pass for vintage construction, even to a trained eye, except for those pesky ykk zips.

There really were not any surprises with this dress because I made the pattern up before.

It's a classic 1940s silhouette that is easy to wear and will definitely come in handy in my wardrobe.

And I love the colors in this print!  I did have to use a multi-directional layout to make everything fit on my yardage, but because of the multi-gored skirt I don't think it's noticeable.  All in all, I'm very pleased with how this project turned out.


Wednesday, April 16, 2025

Never Enough Polka Dots

I have added another Diane von Furstenberg wrap dress to my collection, and I am not sorry about it!

And while I am not a huge fan of working with rayon/lycra knit fabrics, now that I have finished sewing the dress, I can enjoy wearing it, and forget about the aggravation as it slithers across the sewing table.

I know that it won't be everyone's cup of tea, but I will probably wear the dress with the v-neck facing the back most of the time.  It seems like most people prefer the standard v-neck worn in the front, but I have a lot of v-neck dresses, so this makes for a nice change.

And the nice thing about a reversible dress is that I can always change my mind later on!

It has also become quite clear to me that I am a massive fan of the polka dot.  Dress, blouse, shoes, purse - give me all of the polka dots!

And wrap dresses just might come in a close second.

The shorter length works great with the dotted fabric, but I do love a full length wrap dress.  The only downside is the amount of yardage required.

I would also love to be able to find a cotton print jersey fabric or a rayon/cotton blend in a slightly heavier weight.

The original textiles that were used for these dresses are some of the most flattering and comfortable fabrics that I have ever come across.  Why did they start adding spandex and lycra to everything?!

But even with all of my griping, this is a wonderful pattern.

It really doesn't get much easier than throwing on a wrap dress to look completely put together in no time at all.  And no zipper or buttonholes to contend with is just the icing on the cake!


Dress:  Made by me, Vogue 2060
Shoes:  Miss L Fire
Earrings:  Etsy
Bag:  Harvey's Seatbelt Bag

Sunday, April 6, 2025

Polka Dotty

I purchased Vogue 2060 when it went on sale, not really thinking too much about it, but wanting to add another DVF vintage pattern to my collection.  Once I had it next to Vogue 2000, I was questioning my choices and wondering why I had purchased another wrap dress pattern.

To be fair, though, the two patterns are actually different, so in the end, I think that it was worth it.  This particular version of the iconic wrap dress by DVF is drafted for knits and has no darts or tucks.  Vogue 2000 is drafted for both knits and wovens (although I still do question whether or not a pattern can actually work for both equally well).  And there are the obvious design differences with the added collar and a different shape of waist tie, although you certainly wouldn't need a separate pattern for those two changes!

With Vogue 2000, I found a 100% cotton knit which is more in line with the fabric used for the vintage versions of these dresses.  The only suitable knit fabrics that I had stashed away included Lycra or Spandex, so that's what I decided to use this time around.  Do I wish that I could find a rayon or cotton knit with no added elastic fibers?  Yes!  But for now, this was the easiest way to try out the pattern.

I interfaced the facing pieces with a lightweight fusible, included the cut-on skirt facing.  That may have been a mistake as it pulls the skirt opening up slightly, but the added interfacing does keep it from curling, so that is a win.

Seamlines were stitched with a narrow zig-zag on my sewing machine, and I finished most of the raw edges with a serger to keep them from rolling in on themselves.

This project did remind me how much I dislike working with spandex fabrics.  The rayon makes it bearable, I suppose, and they are quite easy to wear, but it does take some of the fun out of the sewing process for me.  Part of that had to do with the size of most of these pattern pieces.  Somehow working on a knit top that uses a yard of fabric doesn't create nearly the aggravation that oversized pattern pieces paired with stretchy and slinky fabric does.

At least knit designs go together quickly!

One thing that I will probably change if I use this pattern again is to cut a separate skirt facing instead of using the cut in one facing drafted on the skirt piece.  Vogue 2000 uses a separate facing and I think that ends up working better for my purposes.

And then we come to the "reversible" part of the design.  According to the pattern, this dress is completely reversible.  However, the sleeve is drafted with a front and back, although the difference in the slope is minimal.  But since I have worked with a least a couple of knit top patterns that utilize a symmetrical sleeve piece which seems to work just fine, why would the pattern draft go to the trouble of having a non-symmetrical sleeve head when the bodice is meant to be worn in both directions?!  I still haven't figured out the answer to that question. 

But I do have a very easy to wear wrap dress made of polka dot fabric which makes me rather happy.

And while I believe I will wear this with the higher neckline facing front (because I think it's a bit more interesting than a standard v-neck wrap dress) it's always nice to have the option.

Which neckline do you prefer?