Buttoned Up

It feels like I haven't worked with a 1940s silhouette in quite some time, which was an oversight on my part.

Perhaps the lightweight rayon is not especially cold weather friendly, but I think this silhouette would work quite well in a drapey wool, as well.

As for how this particular version turned out, I am very happy with the finished results.  The original length of the sleeve was a bit ridiculous, but that was an easy fix, even if I am loath to "alter" anything.  Give me a new sewing project and I will happily spend hours upon hours working away at it . . . but ask me to replace a button that has fallen off of something and I will avoid it for YEARS.  But those sleeves were down to my elbow, and they had to be fixed! 

I also do love a fully buttoned front closure.  That means that there are more buttonholes to contend with, but a front or back opening that allows me to step into a dress is always preferable to a side zip.

And there are plenty of 1940s styles that rely on a side zipper, which may be why I have been avoiding them.

So, once again, a vintage Hollywood Pattern comes through for me.

The long sleeve version of this pattern is also calling my name . . . perhaps in that theoretical wool I was thinking about . . .

Because I am really enjoying a great collar, and even though it gets a bit lost in this floral print, it's there!  And the puffed sleeves aren't too shabby, either.

Dress:  Made by me, Hollywood 579
Shoes:  Kate Spade
Earrings:  Kate Spade

Checks & Plaid for My Archie

It has come to my attention that I have not introduced Archibald (aka Archie) on my blog, which is definitely an oversight!  He has been on my Instagram account a few times, but it is high time he had a blog post to himself.  And since I just made him some cold weather gear, it seemed like the perfect time to formally introduce him around these parts.  He came into my life in May, and he is a complete love bug with a rascally disposition that keeps me on my toes!  I am not sure about his age, but he is somewhere around 1 or 2 years of age, and according to Embark, he is 47% Chihuahua with a fabulous assortment of other breeds, including Poodle, Pomeranian, Pekingese, Cocker Spaniel, Min Pin, and a dash of Cattle Dog (I suspect that's where the freckles come from), Pit Bull, and Dachshund.  I always wanted a Pittie, and now I have my own pint sized version.  Like me, he is pigment challenged, has a tendency to freckle, with short legs and a long torso - he is definitely my son!

And now for the doggie jacket info . . . I pulled out a couple of patterns, and ended up choosing Simplicity 2695 to start.

To complicate things, I decided that I would quilt my own fabric.  I also decided to allow myself to only use items that were stashed.  

The cotton gingham is leftover from this dress, I always have red cotton scraps around these parts although I couldn't tell you specifically which project they were used for, and the poly batting was, in a moment of madness, used to quilt this skirt.  I still can't believe I quilted those huge skirt pieces by machine without going mad.

The quilting on this relatively tiny bit of fabric is far from perfect, and I thought I was going to have to put the whole thing on hold due to a lack of velcro, but I did manage to finish it.  I think that Archie looks rather charming in the ensemble.

There were a couple of things that I thought could be modified, so I found some leftover flannel and decided to make another version before I forgot the changes that I wanted to make to the original.

I scooped out a bit at the side of the main body piece, and flattened out the underbody straps for a bit more clearance from any wayward urine streams (the joys of clothing a male dog).  I also moved those straps forward by about an inch, and I ended up doing the same on the quilted version since they are finished and then stitched into place and it was an easy fix.

I do have a few other suitable patterns, so I should probably try one of those next to see if the shape suits Archie better.  But for now, he has a couple of options to keep him cozy!

Now if only I could figure out a better rain jacket situation since everything seems to be catering to a Frenchie body type and I have no idea where I would find rain resistant fabric options that I would actually want to cut and sew.  Also, if someone could let Archie know that he won't melt in the rain, that would be great, because he is NOT a fan, and I am not sure he believes me.

Jackets:  Made by me, Simplicity 2695

A Hollywood Classic

I was gifted a handful of vintage patterns from a friend who thought I might like them, and lucky me, there are quite a few really special ones that are going to work for me!  First up is this classic shirtdress style from Hollywood Patterns.  While this particular pattern is not on the Vintage Pattern Wiki, and I don't think that the copyright is noted on the pattern envelope or instructions, it definitely fits with the classic 1940s style.  

While I haven't worked with that many Hollywood Patterns, I am quite fond of all of the ones that I have made, so I thought it was a good place to start.  And thankfully, the pattern was complete.   There was a significant tear on the bodice front, but it was complete, so I just traced a copy to ensure I didn't do any further damage.

And like so many vintage designs, there are plenty of elements to love.  First, we have a few lapped seams for the back midriff piece that extends into self-fabric ties at the front.  And of course, it's hard to miss those pleats!

The pattern suggests bound buttonholes (be still, my heart!).  But interestingly enough, it has them constructed after a large portion of the dress is already stitched together.  It also does not mention interfacing, but since I was using a drapey rayon, I decided to add a bit of structure to make those bound buttonholes a bit easier to construct.

And if I make this up again - I do love the long sleeved version - I would begin with the buttonholes to make it easier for myself.

Raw edges were finished with rayon seam binding, per usual.

And there were some hand finished bits.

I even found some lovely vintage shell buttons that were a perfect match, and I had the exact  number needed stitched to an old piece of cardboard.  I just love when that happens!

I didn't add shoulder pads, but I did want those puffed sleeves to stand out, so I added a bit of cotton covered netting to the area to make sure the silhouette looked right.

Archie approved of the dress, as do I.

The hips were slightly more fitted than expected, but that is the ideal 1940s silhouette, so I guess I shouldn't be that surprised. 

This project turned out great.  It's always fun when the fabric and design end up working so well together.  And while it may take me some time, I do think it would be nice to have a long sleeved version added to my collection of vintage reproductions.  But for now I have a few cuts of wool coating calling my name.

A Novel Idea

This was one of those last minute sewing projects as the Summer weather was threatening to disappear but I felt the need to make just one more sundress.  

I knew that I wanted to try a new pattern as I have a huge amount of warm weather dress patterns hanging around making me feel slightly guilty for not using them.  

McCalls 7950 fit the bill, and I don't need much of an excuse to work with a fun novelty print, so that was an easy choice once I came across the cotton stashed away in a bin.

One thing I will say about this pattern is that the instructions/construction is rather lacking.  I am not sure how many people would be comfortable wearing the tie front versions without the addition of some kind of closure.

Looking at the pattern itself, I suspect that this view was added in last minute as a second bodice option to give a different look rather than the standard button front, princess seamed bodice.

And certainly, the cute tie front was what drew me in.  I probably wouldn't have given this pattern a second look had it not been for View A.

The dress itself is rather loose fitting, and there is no additional shaping to the lower half of the bodice, which would be fine for Views C & D.  

I didn't think much of it until I had an almost completed dress, only to realize that it wasn't very wearable as it was drafted.  Darn it!

But I loved the print too much to give up on the dress, so I added a pair of bust pads to hopefully give the bodice a bit more shape.  That definitely helped, but the ties still didn't make the situation feel all that secure.

In the end, a simple hook & bar stitched just under each tie extension did the trick.  And with those small changes, I now have an easy to wear dress perfect for the warm weather which has most definitely disappeared!  Oh well, there is always next year . . .

Dress:  Made by me, McCalls 7950
Earrings:  Made by me
Shoes:  Bernardo "Veronika"

A Ghostly Figure

I finished my Halloween version of the DVF Wrap Dress just in time (although I never manage to get things posted here in a timely fashion).

And overall, I am extremely pleased with this pattern.

Other than the sleeves being quite oversized, and the facings being a bit too wide, this is a very good approximation of the 1970s originals that I have in my closet.  And those are easy fixes.

The 100% cotton jersey that I was able to find was thinner than I would have liked, and I was concerned how that would affect the finished dress.  I am happy to report that it worked just fine.  Sure, it wanted to roll along the edges a bit during construction, but other than that, it really didn't give me much grief.

I am also excited to add a new silhouette to my collection of Halloween themed frocks.

I have a few 1950s inspired silhouettes with knee length skirts, so this makes for a fun change.

I will absolutely be making this pattern again, it's only a matter of time, and finding a suitable fabric choice.

There are a couple of rayon/spandex blends that I have stashed away, but I would rather find something without the added Lycra or spandex.  Then again, it might be fun to compare and contrast what I like more or less about either textile choice.

This pattern has been a very popular one, and I think it is well deserved.

Sure, there are a lot of wrap dress pattern available, but there is something extra special about this one.  And if you don't love the collar and cuffs, you can always skip those bits if you feel like it gives too much of a 1970s vibe.  I happen to love them!  But adding or subtracting those elements along with changing the length of the skirt and fabric choice makes the possibilities almost endless.   

I could definitely get behind a mid-calf length version worn with boots, or a knee length dress with a fabulous pair of platform heels.  But I really do want to make at least one coat this year, so I should probably get my mind headed in that direction before the seasons change again.

Dress:  Made by me, Vogue 2000
Earrings:  GlitzOmatic on Etsy
Shoes:  Nina "Serena"