A Hollywood Classic

I was gifted a handful of vintage patterns from a friend who thought I might like them, and lucky me, there are quite a few really special ones that are going to work for me!  First up is this classic shirtdress style from Hollywood Patterns.  While this particular pattern is not on the Vintage Pattern Wiki, and I don't think that the copyright is noted on the pattern envelope or instructions, it definitely fits with the classic 1940s style.  

While I haven't worked with that many Hollywood Patterns, I am quite fond of all of the ones that I have made, so I thought it was a good place to start.  And thankfully, the pattern was complete.   There was a significant tear on the bodice front, but it was complete, so I just traced a copy to ensure I didn't do any further damage.

And like so many vintage designs, there are plenty of elements to love.  First, we have a few lapped seams for the back midriff piece that extends into self-fabric ties at the front.  And of course, it's hard to miss those pleats!

The pattern suggests bound buttonholes (be still, my heart!).  But interestingly enough, it has them constructed after a large portion of the dress is already stitched together.  It also does not mention interfacing, but since I was using a drapey rayon, I decided to add a bit of structure to make those bound buttonholes a bit easier to construct.

And if I make this up again - I do love the long sleeved version - I would begin with the buttonholes to make it easier for myself.

Raw edges were finished with rayon seam binding, per usual.

And there were some hand finished bits.

I even found some lovely vintage shell buttons that were a perfect match, and I had the exact  number needed stitched to an old piece of cardboard.  I just love when that happens!

I didn't add shoulder pads, but I did want those puffed sleeves to stand out, so I added a bit of cotton covered netting to the area to make sure the silhouette looked right.

Archie approved of the dress, as do I.

The hips were slightly more fitted than expected, but that is the ideal 1940s silhouette, so I guess I shouldn't be that surprised. 

This project turned out great.  It's always fun when the fabric and design end up working so well together.  And while it may take me some time, I do think it would be nice to have a long sleeved version added to my collection of vintage reproductions.  But for now I have a few cuts of wool coating calling my name.

A Novel Idea

This was one of those last minute sewing projects as the Summer weather was threatening to disappear but I felt the need to make just one more sundress.  

I knew that I wanted to try a new pattern as I have a huge amount of warm weather dress patterns hanging around making me feel slightly guilty for not using them.  

McCalls 7950 fit the bill, and I don't need much of an excuse to work with a fun novelty print, so that was an easy choice once I came across the cotton stashed away in a bin.

One thing I will say about this pattern is that the instructions/construction is rather lacking.  I am not sure how many people would be comfortable wearing the tie front versions without the addition of some kind of closure.

Looking at the pattern itself, I suspect that this view was added in last minute as a second bodice option to give a different look rather than the standard button front, princess seamed bodice.

And certainly, the cute tie front was what drew me in.  I probably wouldn't have given this pattern a second look had it not been for View A.

The dress itself is rather loose fitting, and there is no additional shaping to the lower half of the bodice, which would be fine for Views C & D.  

I didn't think much of it until I had an almost completed dress, only to realize that it wasn't very wearable as it was drafted.  Darn it!

But I loved the print too much to give up on the dress, so I added a pair of bust pads to hopefully give the bodice a bit more shape.  That definitely helped, but the ties still didn't make the situation feel all that secure.

In the end, a simple hook & bar stitched just under each tie extension did the trick.  And with those small changes, I now have an easy to wear dress perfect for the warm weather which has most definitely disappeared!  Oh well, there is always next year . . .

Dress:  Made by me, McCalls 7950
Earrings:  Made by me
Shoes:  Bernardo "Veronika"

A Ghostly Figure

I finished my Halloween version of the DVF Wrap Dress just in time (although I never manage to get things posted here in a timely fashion).

And overall, I am extremely pleased with this pattern.

Other than the sleeves being quite oversized, and the facings being a bit too wide, this is a very good approximation of the 1970s originals that I have in my closet.  And those are easy fixes.

The 100% cotton jersey that I was able to find was thinner than I would have liked, and I was concerned how that would affect the finished dress.  I am happy to report that it worked just fine.  Sure, it wanted to roll along the edges a bit during construction, but other than that, it really didn't give me much grief.

I am also excited to add a new silhouette to my collection of Halloween themed frocks.

I have a few 1950s inspired silhouettes with knee length skirts, so this makes for a fun change.

I will absolutely be making this pattern again, it's only a matter of time, and finding a suitable fabric choice.

There are a couple of rayon/spandex blends that I have stashed away, but I would rather find something without the added Lycra or spandex.  Then again, it might be fun to compare and contrast what I like more or less about either textile choice.

This pattern has been a very popular one, and I think it is well deserved.

Sure, there are a lot of wrap dress pattern available, but there is something extra special about this one.  And if you don't love the collar and cuffs, you can always skip those bits if you feel like it gives too much of a 1970s vibe.  I happen to love them!  But adding or subtracting those elements along with changing the length of the skirt and fabric choice makes the possibilities almost endless.   

I could definitely get behind a mid-calf length version worn with boots, or a knee length dress with a fabulous pair of platform heels.  But I really do want to make at least one coat this year, so I should probably get my mind headed in that direction before the seasons change again.

Dress:  Made by me, Vogue 2000
Earrings:  GlitzOmatic on Etsy
Shoes:  Nina "Serena"