Strawberry Fields

After finding two coordinating strawberry themed quilting cottons, I decided that it was only fitting that both of the prints end up in a single garment.  My first thought was to make this Burda Style pattern that I've had for a few years.  It's a 1970s reproduction, and that swirl design caught my eye some years back, and I made a mental note that should the right fabric pairing ever come along, I would try it out.

Of course, it wasn't until I took a closer look at the pattern that I realized that it requires 55" wide fabric, which wasn't going to work with my quilting cotton.  Not to be deterred, I decided to throw caution to the wind and cut the pieces on the cross grain.  I did go up one size just in case the cross grain was going to cause issues through the hips.

This particular pattern contains two pattern pieces that appear to be exactly the same except for the number assigned to each piece, which seems like an odd choice.  They are also missing any sort of notches (other than two circle notations to match the bottom hemline at the proper point).  Seeing as these pieces are partially on the bias, and they are quite long, this is an odd omission.

After trimming down the seam allowance, I finished those curving seamlines with rayon seam binding.  For the zipper opening (which is just the upper portion of one of those seamlines), I clipped into one side of the seam allowance to allow for the seams to open flat.

Archie was very excited to be involved with this project.

He just doesn't quite understand that I have to keep getting up to press things; he would much rather have me stay seated at the machine so he has an available lap.

After I finished my skirt, I was looking through a bunch of patterns in the sewing room and happened upon Simplicity 6312, which looks very similar to my Burda pattern.  After posting on Instagram, someone was kind enough to send me photos of the vintage Burda pattern.   

Turns out, the vintage Burda pattern piece is shaped in a similar fashion to the vintage Simplicity pattern.  It's much more of a semi-circle and not as elongated as the contemporary Burda pattern.  Looking at the fabric widths on the vintage version, there is a narrow and wide width option, which makes sense considering that most vintage yardage tends to be less wide than today's dressmaking fabrics that are often at least 55" wide.  And I suspect that the shape of the Simplicity pattern and the vintage Burda has a lot to do with making those twisted pieces fit on 35" wide fabric as suggested by the diagram below.  I can easily imagine a creative seamstress using some vintage feedbacks to make a gorgeous version of this skirt in the 1970s.  

So the question is, why the heck did Burda reissue a pattern and drastically alter the shape of the pattern pieces?  I suppose one could argue that the Big4 do the same thing to their vintage reproductions.  But these shapes seem excessively different.

I am now rather curious if one would be more flattering on the body than the other.  Of course, that would require me finding two more coordinating prints.  And since I have at least ten other summer appropriate projects in my head at the current moment, this experiment will have to wait . . . but perhaps one day I will make that Simplicity pattern up and see how it goes together!