My latest Britex project gave me the opportunity to work with some pretty
amazing fabric.
I was lucky enough to receive a couple of yards of this yummy
wool/mohair blend to play with. Oh, how I love textured fabrics! But they do present their own challenges.
The pattern I chose was familiar because I have made it before, so I jumped right into the project after checking that all the pieces would fit.
Simplicity 1997 is single sized vintage pattern (as so many of them are), and includes a printed stitching line. Since I was
going to underline in silk organza anyway, I decided to go all out and hand baste those stitching lines. This gave me nice wide seam allowances - important when working with a loose weave since they like to shred apart at the cut edges.
One upshot of a textured fabric is that stitches sink right
into the fabric (although removing basting stitches can be a pain). To keep the two fabrics from shifting along the pleats lines, I used a small pick-stitch. Those stitches remain in the finished garment.
This fabric has a bit of a 1960s vibe, so I wanted to shorten this version of the dress. Which is probably the first time I have done that to a vintage pattern! In the end, I took off five and a half inches, which also helped to fit everything on my yardage.
Because the skirt front is pegged, it is hemmed with a facing. That meant that I had to decide on length before starting the project. Thankfully, I had a finished dress to play with length.
The rest of the project involved a lot of hand basting and then catch-stitching a bunch of seams. The fabric has quite a bit of loft, so that process was extra important for this particular project.
Keeping the bulk to a minimum was also a motivating factor. There was quite a bit of grading of seam allowances. I have to admit I was worried once I put the skirt on the dress form - that is a lot of fabric to corral into a waistline!
And, of course, a waist stay was the final bit of business to prepare the dress for its first outing!
[The fabric for this dress was received in exchange for my
contributions as a Britex
Guest Blogger.]
I love the final result! I can't wait to see pictures of you in it.
ReplyDeleteWow, it's really an amazing fabric and perfect for this dress, love it!
ReplyDelete(www.terzibegum.blogspot.com)
I love it! The chunky fabric looks really nice made in to a simple, yet elegant dress.
ReplyDeleteThe end result is gorgeous, I love how structured it looks with the thick fabric but how the bow and pleating soften it. It's so early seasons of mad men. I'm too afraid to tackle suck thick, textured fabric but I hope I'll get there one day because it looks so lovely.
ReplyDeleteI have been watching old season of Mad Men, so that may be responsible for part of the look/styling, I confess!
DeleteBeautiful dress!
ReplyDeleteI do have a question pertaining to your waist stay. In your last few dresses, I thought I noticed that the stay was between the lining and the underlining only snaking out a few inches directly against the skin through a slit in the lining for closure. On this dress, it appears as though the waist stay is in full contact with the circumference of your waist. What would be the reason and is there a guideline that I am not aware of for determining where, amongst the dress layers, to locate the stay?
Thanks, Dagmar
It really depends on the garment, although most of my dresses have the stay placed on top of the lining (or next to the skin).
DeleteThe corselette I made last year was different. Because it was going to be a bit smaller than my relaxed waist measurement I did not want the edges of the grosgrain digging into my skin so I placed it between the two layers. Also, I used a 1.5” wide ribbon which would have been a bit more uncomfortable than a thinner one. http://www.lauramaedesigns.com/2014/09/the-underpinnings.html
I am wearing a longline bra with this dress, so the stay will not end up touching my waist.
But in the end, it really has more to do with the specific garment than anything else.
Thanks for the information...You confirmed the general guidelines I observe and it is good to know that my thinking on this subject is in line with someone with the profound level of experience you have... :-)
DeleteLovely outfit!
ReplyDeleteAbsolute perfection!
ReplyDeleteIt is so beautiful!! You did an amazing job, and the fabric is perfect for the design. :)
ReplyDeleteThis looks lovely! I am so impressed you made a lofty fabric look so fitted, that skirt does have so much fabric!
ReplyDeletethat style is so cute and I think you could appear in the office on Mad Men and fit in perfectly. Is the fabric itchy?
ReplyDeleteIt is not itchy at all! I was a bit worried about that because some wool irritates my skin, but this one is quite soft. Is mohair usually itchy? Maybe that is the trick!
DeleteYour dress is stunning! I fell in love with this fabric a couple of years ago and used it for a "classic French jacket", lined it in a red and navy geometric-patterned silk twill (with blouse to match), and trimmed in red,white and navy double-layered ribbon. All fabrics and trims and buttons were from Britex, purchased on one of my California trips. (www.fiftydresses.com/2014/01/30/the-second-time-around/)
ReplyDeleteI ALWAYS love to see what you choose to make with your fabrics! And you are correct - this fabric has a slight '60s look to it.
Your jacket is gorgeous!!
DeleteSome day I may have to tackle on of those myself . . .
This is amazing! I've been following your blog for a while now, and I'm always so inspired by the care you put into making each garment a quality one. If you ever need a post idea, I know I'd find it HUGELY helpful if you outlined the extra steps you generally do for garments that aren't included in pattern instructions (organza, where you baste things, waist stays, etc.) What sorts of extras like these would you suggest in general for upping the quality of a garment?
ReplyDeleteIt is a stunning dress and the fact that it's totally underlined in silk organza just adds to the specialness of the dress! Just lovely!
ReplyDeleteJust beautiful. That fabric is amazing. I checked it out on the Britex site. I would never have mustered the courage to cut into it!
ReplyDeleteAnother work of art! Your attention to unseen details pays off better than a 60-1 horse.
ReplyDeleteSuch a lovely dress! I'd love to see how it looks on you.
ReplyDeletewow! I love it!
ReplyDeleteAmazing dress! I love the fabric, wool/mohair blend sounds gorgeous.
ReplyDelete