This pattern presents a certain challenge when it comes to fabric
choice.
The bodice and skirt require a certain amount of structure,
but the capelet needs to drape.
One solution is to add underlining where structure is needed. I went with a stable cotton. (It makes me laugh that both of these fabrics were labeled "navy" - I wonder which classification Pantone would agree with?)
The cotton gives body to the rayon fabric.
I mentioned that the armhole facing was missing from this
pattern. My first thought was to use a
bias binding for the armholes and the neckline.
But with that funny jog at the center front, it was going to be much easier to use a facing.
With the
underlining, I can invisibly tack the entire facing down which will keep it securely in place.
I did, however, draft
armhole facings narrower than the original – this is just a matter of
preference. I will probably stitch the entire circumference down instead of tacking at the seamlines just as I will with the neckline facing.
My favorite part of the process is when the garment begins to look like more than random pattern pieces.
There is still a lot of work to be done, but it definitely is starting to look like a dress!
Very cute. Love polka dots!
ReplyDeleteLooks like this is going to be another fabulous garment. Love the polka dots! A girl can never have enough spots/dots in her wardrobe.
ReplyDeleteThis is really coming together - looks like it's going to be a really great dress :)
ReplyDeleteLooks gorgeous, and thanks for the pictures on the underlining a facings. I'm about to work on a "facing-free" pattern so you gave me some good ideas.
ReplyDeleteWow, I haven't had my coffee yet, I meant to say "of the underlinings and facings"...
DeleteOoh, that looks beautiful!
ReplyDeleteThank you for all this information. I think should do an inner linings class on Craftsy:) It's so nice to see how you are working with different fabrics to create structure. I have a question. Is there a certain way that you cut your underling? i.e parallel, bias, etc. I wonder if it makes much difference how you cut the underlinings in achieving structure? I've got a lot of drappy fabric plans for the future and know that I am going to have to work with some underlinings too.
ReplyDeleteGreat point! Cutting on the grain/cross-grain/bias can be an excellent way to get more or less structure from your underlining fabric, depending on the needs of the project. Grain placement makes a huge difference for any fabric.
DeleteCurious for this particular dress how did you match the underlining? Consistent with pattern? Or on the grain?
DeleteOh also, I think it would be an excellent topic (hint hint), if you had any special tips or tricks to determine when you should use bias, grain etc in your underlings. :)
DeleteThis bodice required a fair amount of structure, so I duplicated the grainline of the original pattern piece.
DeleteMy underlining choice often depends what kind of fabric I can get my hands on - something that might be too heavy suddenly becomes much more pliable when cut on the grain, for example.