Sunday, May 11, 2014

Structured Underlining


This pattern presents a certain challenge when it comes to fabric choice. 


The bodice and skirt require a certain amount of structure, but the capelet needs to drape.


One solution is to add underlining where structure is needed.  I went with a stable cotton.  (It makes me laugh that both of these fabrics were labeled "navy" - I wonder which classification Pantone would agree with?)


The cotton gives body to the rayon fabric.


I mentioned that the armhole facing was missing from this pattern.  My first thought was to use a bias binding for the armholes and the neckline.  


But with that funny jog at the center front, it was going to be much easier to use a facing.  


With the underlining, I can invisibly tack the entire facing down which will keep it securely in place.  


I did, however, draft armhole facings narrower than the original – this is just a matter of preference.  I will probably stitch the entire circumference down instead of tacking at the seamlines just as I will with the neckline facing.


My favorite part of the process is when the garment begins to look like more than random pattern pieces.


There is still a lot of work to be done, but it definitely is starting to look like a dress!


 [The fabric for this project was received in exchange for my contributions as a Britex Guest Blogger.]

11 comments:

  1. Looks like this is going to be another fabulous garment. Love the polka dots! A girl can never have enough spots/dots in her wardrobe.

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  2. This is really coming together - looks like it's going to be a really great dress :)

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  3. Looks gorgeous, and thanks for the pictures on the underlining a facings. I'm about to work on a "facing-free" pattern so you gave me some good ideas.

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    1. Wow, I haven't had my coffee yet, I meant to say "of the underlinings and facings"...

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  4. Thank you for all this information. I think should do an inner linings class on Craftsy:) It's so nice to see how you are working with different fabrics to create structure. I have a question. Is there a certain way that you cut your underling? i.e parallel, bias, etc. I wonder if it makes much difference how you cut the underlinings in achieving structure? I've got a lot of drappy fabric plans for the future and know that I am going to have to work with some underlinings too.

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    1. Great point! Cutting on the grain/cross-grain/bias can be an excellent way to get more or less structure from your underlining fabric, depending on the needs of the project. Grain placement makes a huge difference for any fabric.

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    2. Curious for this particular dress how did you match the underlining? Consistent with pattern? Or on the grain?

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    3. Oh also, I think it would be an excellent topic (hint hint), if you had any special tips or tricks to determine when you should use bias, grain etc in your underlings. :)

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    4. This bodice required a fair amount of structure, so I duplicated the grainline of the original pattern piece.

      My underlining choice often depends what kind of fabric I can get my hands on - something that might be too heavy suddenly becomes much more pliable when cut on the grain, for example.

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