Toile de Jouy

As you may have noticed in my previous post, I was debating whether or not to add sleeves to Butterick 5882.  In the end, the question was moot because I did not have enough fabric.  Oh well, I will save that for the next one!

All of those cotton prints that I pulled out to match back to the toile gave me an idea – quilting cotton would make the perfect lining fabric.  And when adding boning to a lining, it is so much easier to work with a stable fabric.  That is what I call a win-win!

I did not have any matching green thread for the cotton print, so I decided to go with a contrasting pink.  This is not a detail that anyone else will ever see, but it makes me happy.

The pattern also calls for a skirt lining.  I decided to finish my seams with seam binding and omit the skirt lining since I did not have anything suitable on hand.  Because this dress is going to be worn with a petticoat, it is not really necessary. 

Of course, I added a strip of silk organza to the back opening, and used a lapped application for the zipper. 

I should also mention that this particular pattern gives a bit more ease through the waist than most Butterick fitted waist silhouettes.  But with all of those seams, it was easy to take it in.

The one thing I am a bit iffy on is the straps.  They are cut in one continuous bias cut piece.  Obviously the bias is necessary for the fold down section at the front bust, but bias straps are just asking for trouble.  And they make hanger loops an absolute necessity.

When I use this pattern again, I believe I will interface the two ends of the straps for added stability.

Gertie mentioned that the photos on the Butterick website do not show the underbust strap folded down as she intended.  I could not get that portion of the strap to stay down on its own, so I folded and hand stitched it in place at the bodice edges.

And just an FYI – this dress would work as a strapless – just shorten the straps!  The bodice pieces are already boned, so why not?!