[excerpts from Fashion – Fall Winter 1950]
Life may suddenly have
become very simple for New York and Paris designers. They seem to have come to a tacit agreement
on “the” silhouette of the season:
slim-as-a-knife. But it’s small
comfort for the more than three-fourths of us who bulge as no knife ever did,
except maybe a Turkish scimitar.
Ready-to-wear clothes
will be slim through the bust and beam – more so than we – or else too large
through the waist. Prices, they say,
will be no lower. For real fit, to give
the optical illusion that we’re pounds lighter than we are, at a sensible
price, the smarter gals will be plugging away at their little sewing machines.
Here are a few ways
they’ll camouflage themselves as willowy:
they’ll adjust their patterns so that shoulders, waistline, side-seams
are just precisely where they should be.
There will be no stretching of fabric tight over a bulge, sausage-like;
rather the fit will be just shy of loose, so that you’ll get the benefit of the
doubt on just how close their clothes do fit them.
Fall colors will be on
your side, too, for your camouflage job.
The black-white combination of summer is carrying right over into winter
because women have demanded a repeat on the flattery of the black for their
figures and the white for their faces.
. . .
Accents, in color or
in fashion variation like checks and plaid, can draw eyes away from defects
(hips, chubby legs, extra full thighs) to an asset (attractive hands, high
bustline, firm chin) every time. But
such accents will generally be restricted to one splash. They may line the wrap of a slim skirt to
direct attention to a slim ankle, or they may form a bright one-sided pointed
collar that juts off to the right of your chin.
Another fortunate
fashion for the gals with girth this season is the stress on vertical
lines. Though the skirts will be up to
14 inches and higher, they will be so narrow at the hemline that many a slit
will be necessary. Some of these will be
above the knee. For those who oppose
this, there are the wrap-skirt dresses, with a wide flap to permit ease of
walking.
. . .
Almost any fabric you
choose for your suit, coat or dress will be right. The variety shown in the Big City ’s
finest salons is endless. Heading the list in a tie are velvet (and velveteen) and tweed.
It would seem that the more things change, the more they
stay the same. Will women ever stop
trying to hide the “flaws”?!
But I will take any of the above suits in velvet or tweed . . .
"There will be no stretching of fabric tight over a bulge, sausage-like". That seems like a good rule to follow, and definitely a good reason to sew. I will second your dibs on a suit in velvet or tweed.
ReplyDeleteI always love the upbeat, no beating around the bush kind of way most vintage fashion magazines were written. So direct, chipper, and unabashed about telling things like they were (and how to disguise those things one wished weren't!).
ReplyDelete♥ Jessica
"Thin through the bust and beam..."?
ReplyDeleteWhat is a beam?
I do like a nice slim suit with a wiggle skirt though...
That is a good question . . . perhaps is refers to the torso or trunk?
DeleteHow interesting...the more things change, the more they stay the same. Thanks for the fun post :)
ReplyDeleteGood thing I have attractive hands to cover people's eyes so they can't see my flaws!
ReplyDeleteI am glad to know I am not the only one who was laughing over attractive hands!? Good call on covering the eyes!
DeletePerhaps things HAVE changed more than I realized . . .
Such imagery! Am I a sausage or a scimitar? It is too bad that both then and now we consider normal body parts to be "defects." But those suits are gorgeous no matter what!
ReplyDeleteIt's amazing how some things never change, but you know, they don't write anymore the way they used to. This is an extraordinarily entertaining piece of writing, and it's just a plain old advertisement. Thanks for posting this -- such a fun read. And I, too, will take any of these jackets, or the vest at the top. So classy!
ReplyDeleteThis is fantastic! They are so frank! I wish we didn't have to constantly work so hard to hide our flaws though - still I wish I was slim-as-a-knife ;)
ReplyDeletehttp://shopaholiconashoestring.wordpress.com/
Wonderful reading! Thank you :) And I now appreciate my firm chin ;)
ReplyDelete